The Garden Route and the Little Karoo

The only major airport serving the Garden Route and the Little Karoo is George Airport, 10 km (6 miles) southwest of town. George is well served by Airlink, SA Express, Mango, and Kulula airlines with daily flights from South Africa’s three major cities (Cape Town, Durban, and Johannesburg). Flying times are two hours from Johannesburg, 1½ hours from Durban, and one hour from Cape Town. There are only a handful of flights from Johannesburg or Cape Town to the little airfield in Plett, 6 km (4 miles) west of town, but from here African Ramble runs charters to anywhere you may wish to go that has a landing strip (most commonly to the Eastern Cape game reserves). These scenic trips fly over the Robberg Peninsula and out over the bay (where you may see whales or dolphins) and then hug the coast up to Nature's Valley before heading inland.

Airlines

African Ramble Air Charter. Plettenberg Bay Airport, 6600. 083/375–6514; www.africanramble.co.za.

Airport

George Airport. George Airport, George, Western Cape. 044/876–9310; www.airports.co.za.

Intercape Mainliner and Greyhound offer regular service between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth, stopping at all major Garden Route destinations on the N2, although they often don't go into town but drop passengers off at gas stations along the highway. Another excellent service is the Baz Bus, which offers a handy door-to-door, hop-on, hop-off service to backpacking hostels along the Garden Route and beyond (all the way up to the Wild Coast in the Eastern Cape).

Most of the towns in this chapter can be found along the N2 highway. The road is in good condition and well signposted. A cautionary note, however: there is a wide shoulder along most of the route, but pull onto it to let faster cars overtake you only when you can see a good few hundred yards ahead. Also, stick to the speed limit, as speed traps are common.

An alternative to the N2 is the less traveled—some say more interesting—inland route, dubbed Route 62, even though some of it is on the R60. From Worcester, in the Breede River valley , you can travel the R60 and R62 to Oudtshoorn.

Although it is possible to get from place to place by bus, the best way to explore this region is by car. There are two practical routes from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth. You can follow the N2 along the Garden Route, or you can take Route 62, which goes through the Little Karoo. These two roads are separated by the Outeniqua Mountains, which are traversed by a number of scenic passes. So it is possible—even desirable, if you have the time—to hop back and forth over the mountains, alternating between the lush Garden Route and the harsher Little Karoo. The inland border of the Little Karoo is formed by the Swartberg Mountains; the Great Karoo is on the other side, beyond the mountains.

Garden Route. This beautiful 208-km (130-mile) stretch of coast takes its name from a year-round riot of vegetation. Here you'll find some of the country's most inspiring scenery: forest-cloaked mountains, rivers and streams, and golden beaches. The area draws a diverse crowd, from backpackers and adventure travelers to family vacationers and golfers. The main towns along the route are (from west to east) Mossel Bay, George, Wilderness, Knysna, Plettenberg Bay, the Crags, Tsitsikamma, and Storms River.

Little Karoo. Presenting a striking contrast to the Garden Route is the semiarid region known as the Little Karoo (also known as the Klein Karoo). In addition to a stark beauty that comes with its deep gorges and rugged plains, the Little Karoo offers the chance to visit ostrich farms, to stay at the Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, to explore the impressive Cango Caves, and to relax at vineyards.

The whole area is malaria-free, the climate is mild, and the water is safe to drink. Avoid sunburn by wearing a hat and slathering on sunscreen, and take care when swimming, as some beaches have dangerous currents. Never feed wild animals, especially vervet monkeys, who can become a nuisance.

Most towns have late-night pharmacies, and if they don't, pharmacies usually have an emergency number on the door. Call the general-emergencies number (10111 from landline; 112 from mobile phone) for all emergencies. If you break down while driving, call your car-rental company or the company's designee. If you are a member, you can also call the Automobile Association (AA) for assistance.

3 Days: Choose a home base in the Garden Route: Wilderness, Knysna, and Plettenberg Bay (Plett) are all excellent options. You'll encounter wonderful crafts shops and studios in all these towns, so keep your credit card handy. On your first day, take a half-day walk through Plett's Robberg Nature Reserve, visit the Woodville Big Tree in Wilderness, or explore Knysna's Garden of Eden. Devote the afternoon to a boat or kayak trip; you may see dolphins, seals, and/or whales, particularly around Plett. Dedicate the second day to whatever activity suits your fancy—lounging on the beach, paddling, horseback riding, or abseiling (rappelling). If you're staying in Plett, you could drive out to Storms River on the third day to do the treetop canopy tour. If you're staying farther west, head over one of the scenic passes to Oudtshoorn, visit the Cango Caves, and take a different scenic drive back.

5 Days: Start with the three-day itinerary . Then spend the next two days at the Little Karoo's Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, where you can see the Big Five and take in lovely flora. Alternatively, you could spend some extra time at any of the Garden Route destinations from the first itinerary; you may want to linger, for example, in Storms River, which will put you right near the spectacular Tsitsikamma section of the Garden Route National Park.

8 Days: Spend the first day or two at Sanbona Wildlife Reserve. Then head east along the R62 to Oudtshoorn, stopping for lunch at the Joubert-Tradauw winery near Barrydale. The next day, visit the Cango Caves before heading over the Robertson, Montagu, or Outeniqua pass to Mossel Bay, Plettenberg Bay, Knysna, or Wilderness, where you'll have no trouble filling the rest of your time with shopping, beach lounging, kayaking, whale-watching, or any combination thereof. If you have an adventurous bent, spend the last two or three days at Storms River Village, where you can take the treetop canopy tour, hit a mountain-bike trail, or go for a long walk in the Tsitsikamma section of the Garden Route National Park. Want still more adventure? En route to Storms River, make the world's highest bungee jump at the Bloukrans River Bridge.

Most local tourism bureaus are very helpful. Typical hours are weekdays 8:30 to 5, Saturday 8 to 1. In peak season (generally October to April), you may find them open longer; in very quiet periods the staff may close up shop early.

There's no best time to visit the Garden Route, although the water and weather are warmest November through March. The high season is from mid-December to mid-January, when South African schools break for the summer holidays and families flock to the coast. Between May and September the weather cools down with some rain (though there is no single rainy season here). The winter months are the low season, and some establishments choose this time of year to take a break. Yet, even in these colder months it's rarely cold for more than two or three days at a stretch, after which you'll get a few days of glorious sunshine. Wildflowers bloom along the Garden Route from July to October, the same time as the annual Southern Right whale migration along the coast.

The Little Karoo can be scorchingly hot in summer. In winter, days are generally warm and sunny, though it does get cold at night.